Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 11, 2012

Playgrounds and Parakeets

Blog post double header today - here is the first post of (hopefully) two, provided that the little one (well, actually, now our big one!) stays napping.

On that note: I was refering to our toddler son as the "little one" on the blog, but now he has competition in the form of our littlest man, who is already just over one week old!  Ideas for blog pseudonyms for both boys are welcome!

In any case, I have been meaning to post about the playgrounds for a while now and just have not gotten around to it.  Playgrounds are everywhere here, though some of them consist only of a single slide or swingset nestled beside an RER stop.  We are lucky to have at least 5 playgrounds within walking distance here, set between the apartment buildings in the neighborhood.  Our neighborhood was built in the 1970s in response to the massive influx of immigrants to the Paris region, many of them Algerians who settled in France after Algerian independence.  The apartment buildings were clearly built hastily to accommodate the swelling population, and they are definitely not the gorgeous Art Deco buildings of Paris.  Instead, they are squat concrete rectangles with zero embellishments or personality.  The plus, though, is that in the spaces between buildings, small parks have emerged, with greenery and playgrounds in between nearly every apartment complex.  These parks are maintained by the city and open to all, and are generally in pretty good condition.  While the park below is actually in Paris, it gives you a good idea of the size of playgrounds here (this would be considered large-ish):



What cracks me up about these parks (and the French culture in general) is how incredibly rules-oriented and safety-conscious they are.  Posted in every playground is a list of rules (and a long list at that).  The playing surface is typically made of shock-absorbent rubber.  Even funnier than the rules are the individual plaques that adorn each piece of playground equipment:




Each piece of equipment has a designated age range - both a minimum and a maximum age.  And kids are aware of this, too.  A couple of weeks ago I was supervising the little one as he (gasp!) played on a structure suitable for kids age 4 and up.  A little boy no older than 5 came up to me and, with a worried look on his face, told me that the little guy should not be playing on this piece of equipment, because he could fall and hurt himself.  I thanked the little boy and told him that it was ok, that I was there to watch him, and that this is how he would learn what he was comfortable with.  Clearly, the little boy had never heard this particular brand of logic, as he just stared at me, puzzled. 

Now, the above is NOT meant to imply that French parents are all overprotective or that the kids will grow up not knowing how to take calculated risks.  There is actually a lot of nice logic to this layout.  Parents can allow their kids some freedom on the age-appropriate equipment with little chance of injury.  Kids can play independently without their parents hovering over them.  This is often the case, as many parents spend their playground time sitting on the park benches that ring the playground, while the kids run around as they please.  It is totally different than our playground experiences with toddlers in Portland, where parents were almost always integrally involved as their kids explored the park.  I see pros and cons to both extremes, yet it is interesting to note the prevalent attitude in each locale.

If you have read this far, you are probably wondering where the parakeets tie in.  There is a link, I promise.  When my mother was visiting last month, she came in from playing with the little one and told L that she thought she had seen a lime green parakeet in a tree.  It snows here, which is hardly the ideal environment for these birds, so we assumed she had seen something different.  A few days later, though, our neighbor asked me if I had seen the parakeets yet.  Parakeets?  Yes, he told me, there is a whole flock of them that live here, out in the wild.  No one knows if they were initially just a couple of released pets or if they came from elsewhere as stowaways, but they were here.  And ever since then I have been scouring the parks for them, to no avail.  But last week, when I was walking the dogs through the nearest park early in the morning after a mostly sleepless night full of newborn diaper changes, I heard one, then two, then lots of parakeets chattering.  I looked up to see a flock of two dozen parakeets, some lime green, some sage green.  Two dozen!  So they do exist.  I will try to take a picture for next time.

Ok, on to post number two.  Stay tuned!

- E

Monday, March 12, 2012

Dog Park!

Okay, so I failed miserably at posting this blog entry yesterday, as promised.  I tried, y'all, I really tried, but the bed just seemed too comfortable and I just couldn't seem to stay awake.  So, 24 hours later, I am here to make up for it!

Portland has lots of great dog parks, and we used them frequently when we lived there.  A particularly lovely park (Fernhill) was literally 3 minutes (by car) away, or a 15 minute walk. It was great to head over there on a weekend morning with a coffee in hand, ready to be entertained by offleash dog shenanigans.  If we were feeling more adventurous, a huge plot of BLM land along the Sandy river (Thousand Acres) would be our destination; even further out was a great hike in the Columbia river gorge (Eagle Creek).  The dogs had plenty of opportunities to run free, which gave everyone a nice break from the daily routine.

Fast-forward to France.  Dogs are not allowed in many of the small city playgrounds.  We do have a large park close by, and I sometimes see off leash dogs there early in the morning, but the park borders a major street and I am too afraid of the dogs running into traffic to really let them loose there.  The result has been that in the past 3 months, the poor pooches have not been able to run off leash.  We have two terrier mixes, so you can just imagine the frustration (and energy level) in our tiny apartment!

Sunday, the dogs finally got to run wild.  We had heard about Parc de Sceaux for several weeks, and had been told that it was a nice nature park with trails and an off leash dog area.  Sold!  Since we don't have a car, however, the ride to the park was a little different than the dogs were used to:
Yep, we took the train with the dogs.  Officially, according to the RER rules, we are supposed to purchase reduced-fare tickets for each dog (equivalent of the fare for a 4 to 10 year old).  I will let you guess where I stood on this policy.

The dogs did pretty well on the train - a little shaking, a few tiny whines, but no barking or crying.  Of course, the little one thought it was h-i-l-a-r-i-o-u-s that his dogs were riding the train with him.  We made it to the RER stop, walked through a gorgeous neighborhood of mansions, and finally found Parc de Sceaux.  It is absolutely gorgeous... but not exactly a nature park, particularly by Pacific Northwest standards.  I guess this is a nature park 'à la française'...
 The dogs were so stunned that I removed their leashes that they just sat there in stunned silence long enough for me to capture the moment:
Aaaaaand then it was off to the races.  Maple (the one on the left) ran laps for a good 5 minutes before even heading off to explore.  As she darted in and out of the pedestrian traffic, an old man carrying a walking stick kept swinging it along the ground at her as if to trip her.  I was about to write him off as a grumpy old man until I realised he was trying to make her do agility tricks - he wanted her to hurdle his walking stick!
The park includes multiple gorgeous lawns like the one seen above, pavillions to buy coffee and sandwiches, running trails with workout stations along the sides, horseback riding, and some areas specifically reserved for dogs to run.  They had a blast.



  One more note - see the manicured trees?  They are all trimmed into squares with perfectly aligned edges.  This particular stretch extended a good 400m on either side of the path.
The dogs needed baths to wash off all of the nasty stuff they found to roll in, but whatever.  They slept HARD once we got home, and that is sweet for all of us.  I am pretty sure we will be back next weekend...

- E

Sunday, March 11, 2012

Allez les Bleus!

E here.  I am a little tardy on the posts and I am going to try to post not once, but twice today!  Let's see how this goes...

So anyway, first topic.  I got to see a Six Nations rugby game last Sunday - France vs. Ireland - at the Stade de France.  The stadium is massive (apparently it holds 80,000 spectators) and we had an amazing view of the field from our seats.  Watching an international rugby match has literally been one of my 'life list' items to check off, so I was SUPER pumped to finally get to see a match live.
The French national anthem is La Marseillaise.  I haven't learned it yet, but got to hear it multiple times during the game.

Before heading into the stadium, there were tons of food tents selling draught beer and merguez sausages tucked into baguettes.  You can get your merguez on baguette "American style", which means topped with a mountain of french fries.  I did not partake in the deliciousness, but next time, it's on.  Once you are in the stadium, however, things are a little different.  North Americans: take a look at the picture below.  Yep, look closely... what is missing?


Give up?

No vendors!!!  Once inside the stadium, people forget the food and the drinks and just focus on the match.  There was a single concession stand (that was only busy during halftime) and not a single vendor selling candy/chips/popcorn/peanuts/hotdogs/sodas/beer/balloons.  Compared to pro or college sports in North America, this might seem shocking, but people here are actually here to watch the game.  And to yell about it.  And to whistle at the refs.

Of course, I had to show some Canadian pride in the stands...

The French were down 17-6 at halftime, but managed to come back to a 17-17 tie.  If it wasn't for an unfortunate turnover in the first half that led directly to Ireland's first try, les Bleus may even have pulled off the win.  What was really nice was that after the game, the team made the rounds of the stadium to thank the fans.  Nice touch!

Stay tuned for post number two... dog park!

- E

Sunday, November 27, 2011

From Bures to the Marché de Noël

At breakfast this morning I learned about the Christmas markets that are set up all over Paris during this time of year.  The largest of the bunch is on the Champs Elysées - 170 temporary vendor chalets are set up along both sides of the boulevard, along with carousels, a small ice skating rink, kids' roller coasters, and a "museum" boasting 200 animated exotic animals.  Needless to say I skipped the last attraction, but I did decide to head into the city to check out the market.

While L is most definitely the photographer in the family, I did bring along our small point-and-shoot camera to give all of you a sense of where I'm living now (Bures), along with a few photos from the market.  Below is my temporary apartment (top floor, right side).  It's incredibly well set up, with a few luxuries (electric towel-warming rack!) that I know we won't have in our apartment.

Résidhome Bures sur Yvette
 
From here, it's a 10 minute walk through the woods into the village of Bures, where I catch the RER-B line into Paris.

Chemin de la Fontaine Saint Matthieu

RER-B station, Bures-sur-Yvette

From the Bures station, it's about 30 minutes to the center of Paris.  There is an extensive metro network through the city, but from many of the city center stations it's just as easy to walk.  And since walking builds up an appetite, I decided to stop along the street and get a snack: another sandwich!  I know that at some point these amazing little bundles of meat and bread will lose their appeal - but until then, I remain amazed at how inexpensive and delicious they are.  And they're everywhere!  Today's selection came with butter and not mayonnaise, but no matter: it was still delectable.  The scenery at lunch wasn't bad, either.

Sandwich!  Nom nom nom...

On to the market: today was gray and cloudy, and I have a feeling that the place feels a lot more magical after dark when all of the Christmas lights are lit, but nonetheless it was nice to walk around, people-watch, and check out the food and wares for sale at the various booths.

Eiffel Tower shaped lollipops

There were typical street-fair foods (cotton candy, candy apples, crepes, waffles, candy) and typical street-fair stuff to buy (scarves, jewelry, cheap toys, anything and everything with "Paris" written on it).  Lots of french fries and hot dogs, but also onion soup, tartiflette (a potato, bacon, and cheese casserole), roasted chestnuts, and even raw oyster bars set up among the booths (don't worry, Mom, I steered clear of the raw oysters).  My favorite booths held incredible wheels of cheese, cured meats and sausages, and other salty delights - although at this point I was still full from my sandwich and chose only to partake of the free samples.  I did, however, give in and try the vin chaud (hot wine).  Spiced with cinnamon and orange slices, it was absolutely delicious!

Raw oysters with fresh lemon served at the open-air market
 
More meat and cheese!  Nom nom nom!

My vin chaud.  Yep, the tree has been sprayed with fake snow for dramatic effect.
 
When L and the little one arrive, it will be fun to head back up here with them and take a carousel ride, maybe try out the skating rink, or ride the ferris wheel.  I'm sure that the market will continue to get more and more crowded as Christmas approaches, but since we will not have any of our stuff by Christmas (it will still be in a container arriving via the Atlantic), it might be nice to see so much holiday kitsch.

Tomorrow also marks my first real day of work (finally!), which is both exciting and bittersweet.  We waited a long time before my work permit and our visas were finalized, and it was incredible to have so many unhurried days with the little one.  However, we can't both be stay at home moms, and I am looking forward to starting a challenging job with an incredible team.  I figure that with only 660 square feet or so to maintain, we can't possibly spend our weekends cleaning the house, which means we should have plenty of time to explore our new city...

- E

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Happy Thanksgiving!

24 hours and ~140 pounds of luggage later, I'm sitting in my hotel in Bures-sur-Yvette waiting for my Thanksgiving feast (Chinese takeout) to be delivered.  While I am not able to celebrate with L and the little one, who are still in Portland, I certainly have a lot to be grateful for over the past 24 hours:

- Our friends A & C who volunteered (really, insisted) to take me to the airport at 4:00am so that the little one could keep sleeping
- Easy, on-time flights from Portland to Vancouver to Montreal
- Family supper (with my parents, brother, and sister in law) at the airport in Montreal: ribs, beer, and chicken wings!
- Excellent flight from Montreal to Paris.  My seatmates were nonexistent, so I had an entire row to myself to stretch out, lie down, and even nap a little.

Travel up to this point was easy-peasy.  From the airport in Paris, I took the train (RER-B) south to the town where my hotel was located.  I had used google maps before leaving to map out a walking route from the train station to my hotel: google said it should take me ~10 minutes.  Even with luggage to haul, that seemed manageable.  Unfortunately, the walking path was rocky, pitted, and half-paved... not great for dragging suitcases!  I somehow managed to veer off course and my 10 minute walk turned into a 45 minute sweatfest, at the end of which I found myself on the corner of a street I didn't recognize, with no phone service, no map, and no one around.  This brings me to another thing I am thankful for: the kindness of strangers.  A guy stopped to ask me if I needed help with my bags, helped me find my hotel, and dragged my suitcases all the way to the hotel's lobby.  Turns out he's an assistant professor at the local university, spent some time doing a postdoc in the USA, and is married to an english-speaker.  I am so grateful to him for making today a little easier!

On the docket for tomorrow: open a bank account, visit 3 apartments, and hopefully pick up the keys to my rental car.  Meanwhile, I will enjoy my Chinese take-out feast, watch the French news, unpack my suitcases and try to fall asleep at a reasonable hour. 

- E